When I was a young, single man, I spent a week in London. I rode those double-decker buses, jumped in one of the black taxis and was mesmerized by the driver’s knowledge of such a large city, shopped at Herrod’s, saw Shakespeare performed at the Picadilly Theatre, and toasted London with a few room-temperature beers.
I don’t recall having a bite of food that knocked my socks off, but I was a young, jaded culinary student from New Orleans and was constantly reminded that ours was the finest food town on the planet. I do remember some wonderful street food, and my favorite was fish and chips. Fresh cod, dipped in a beer batter and fried until its crust shattered like a Leidenheimer’s baguette.
Served in a newspaper cone along with a massive handful of fried potatoes, was there anything more British? I propped myself on an outdoor table with a glass of bitters and marveled at the V-12 E-Type Jaguar that drove past. I believed I was the luckiest guy in the world.
Recently I was told by someone’s whose opinion I trust that if I love fish and chips, I should get to The Oxbow on Old Easley Highway on a Thursday night.
“It’s proper fish and chips, mate,” they said.
That it is.
Owners Alyssa and Ray Wyatt — she’s American, he is English — met while working in Australia. Both are lovers of hospitality, and their resumes include stops in Tanzania, Myanmar, Spain and France. Ray has spent time cooking in impeccable kitchens, yet he loves the simplicity of fish and chips. Ours arrived steaming hot with the aromas of salt and beer. I mentioned my fish and chips story to Alyssa and we were both disappointed that newspapers are no longer considered safe for serving fried fish.
Alyssa Wyatt of The OxbowLater, I asked Ray about his favorite newspaper for said fish.
“The Hastings Observer from the mid-’80s!” he said. “My very first job was as a paperboy in my village, and I used to deliver the Hastings Observer on Thursday. I swear, sometimes that paper bag was bigger than me.”
While chatting with Alyssa at the bar, a British couple wandered in and smiled broadly at the sight of the Union Jack. They had just moved to Greenville a month prior and were already homesick for a little slice of Great Britain. The Oxbow, located just west of the Pickens-Greenville county line, only serves its fish and chips on Thursday and Friday. They often sell out before 7 p.m.
Our planet’s most memorable dishes are ones that elicit a place and a time. While dining at The Oxbow, I realized how fortunate I am to have had fish and chips in London, outside, served in an unsafe newspaper. Fish and chips at The Oxbow, for me and many others, is a time machine.
The Oxbow, at 1307 Old Easley Highway, is open five days a week.
“City Juice” is a colloquial term for a glass of tap water served at a diner. John Malik is a restaurant and hospitality consultant. He can be reached at chefjohnmalik@gmail.com.
